Home tools Buyer's Guides from tech enthusiast who loves technology and clever solutions for better living.
Best magnifying glass 2018 – [Buyer’s Guide]Last Updated December 1, 2018
Best magnifying glass of 2018
I am going to specify each good-to-buy feature as much as possible for your references. I’ve based my selection methodology on customer feedback, the size, functionality, and budget to meet various demands.
The “Total” indicates the overall value of the product. If you’re scouring the market for the best magnifying glass, you’d better have the right info before spending your money.
Test Results and Ratings
№1 – LED Magnifying Glass 10X + 5X Illuminated 2 Lens set. Best Magnifier Set With lights for Seniors
Why did this magnifying glass win the first place?
I don’t know anything about other models from this brand, but I am fully satisfied with this product. I am very happy with the purchase. It is definitely worth its money. The product is top-notch! The material is stylish, but it smells for the first couple of days. I really enjoy the design. It is compact, comfortable and reliable. And it looks amazing!
№2 – Coohome 3 LED Light
Why did this magnifying glass come in second place?
Managers explained me all the details about the product range, price, and delivery. Seems that the material is good. It has a very beautiful color but I don’t really like the texture. This is a pretty decent product that perfectly fitted the interior of our office. I like this product. For such a low price, I didn’t even hope it to be any better. It’s decently made.
Why did this magnifying glass take third place?
It doesn’t squeaks nor bents. Looks great in my apartment. It is inconvenient to use due to the size. I am going to get something different next time. I liked the design. We’ve been using it for 2 months and it still looks like brand new. A very convenient model. It is affordable and made of high-quality materials.
magnifying glass Buyer’s Guide
Lamps with built in magnifiers can be a useful tool for a wide range of different activities. The main use of a magnifying lamp is to provide high quality light to make the item you are looking at brighter and more visible. Not only are they a huge help to anyone who has degenerative eyesight problems like macular degeneration, they are also fantastic tools to help reduce eye strain and vision fatigue for anyone who needs to focus on minute details any type of fine work. This can be anything from jewelry making to electronic repair to a whole range of hobby crafts. They are also helpful for professional uses such as dentistry, or esthetics that require both magnifying and illumination at the same time.
There are many different types of lighted magnifying lamps with an option for every budget. The following chart shows some of the most popular and highly rated products broken down by style type.
Features to Consider
When shopping around for an illuminated magnifier lamp, there are a few features and terms to be familiar with to ensure that you end up getting a light that will work the best for your needs.
One of the most important features on these products is the bulb or tube that is used to produce the light. For the most part these magnifiers use either a fluorescent bulb or a LED lighting element placed around the viewing glass frame. It tends to be the older models that use the fluorescent bulbs, as most new models use LED although there are still a fair amount that use fluorescent.
LEDs are durable, long lasting; they also use less energy and emit less heat than florescent bulbs. Since LED provides light without heat, they’re also safer to work with, even safer than fluorescents which are typically quite cool.
Depending on your intended use for the product you will also want to pay close attention to the magnification level of the lens or the diopter of the lens. Diopter is the amount of curvature a lens will have, the more curvature a lens has means it will have a higher diopter number and more magnification.
Figuring out what diopter lens to get depends on the type of task you are using the light for, as well as your own eyesight. Generally these lenses have a diopter number of or Objects viewed under a diopter lens will have a magnification of 1.75x and will appear 175% bigger than normal. While objects viewed under a 5-diopter lens have a magnification of 2.25x and will appear 225% bigger than normal. The diopter lenses would let you view things from farther away (10-1inches) while a diopter lens is best for really fine work with small objects.
Keep in mind that as the level of magnification increases, your lens and focal length get smaller.
There are four basic styles that you can go with, all with advantages and disadvantage depending on its intended use.
Desktop with Clamp-The clamp style is very versatile for most users. You can attach these to work benches, tables, desks or any kind of work station that you have set up. Depending on what you are clamping the lamp to, you may want to check the measurement of the clamp.
If you are using one of these lamps to work with electrical circuit boards and sensitive components you will probably want to look for a model that is Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) safe. There are a number of higher end magnifiers (Aven, Luxo or Dazor) that are ESD-Safe that have special polymers applied to the lens, and that have passed rigid ESD certification testing standards.
Ultra-Efficient Desk Clamp
What do users love: This is considered by most users to be a well-made solid very useful device. The arm does not go limp after extensive use as do some of its competitors. It moves easily and stays in place. It comes with a cover to keep dust off the lens. The light is bright and the magnification is great. The cover is a nice touch to keep dirt and dust out. The clamp is extremely sturdy and attaches easily to a desk or table giving you more room to work.
How to Choose a Telescope for Beginners
This is an exciting time to become an amateur astronomer. Never have novice stargazers been presented with such a vast array of telescopes and accessories to pursue their hobby. Naturally, this brings the burden of choice: the bewildering variety makes it hard for an uninformed consumer to make the right decision on what type of telescope to buy.
Whether you’re seriously considering buying your first telescope or just daydreaming about it, this guide will help you narrow your options. First we’ll explore the types of telescopes available, and then we’ll discuss their key features — the size of the primary lens or mirror, type of mount, portability, computerization, and accessories. We’ll also look at the tradeoffs, because every instrument has its advantages and disadvantages.
Before you buy anything, you must determine what’s important to you. What do you most want to look at? How dark is your sky? How experienced an observer are you? How much to you want to spend? What storage space do you have, and how much weight do you want to carry? Answer these key questions, familiarize yourself with what’s on the market, and you’ll be well on your way to choosing a telescope that will satisfy you for many years to come.
Before examining the different telescopes available, it’s worth knowing the basics of how they work.
Every scope has a focal length, which is effectively the distance from the primary lens or mirror to the image it forms. (This is not always the same as the length of the tube, since, as we’ll see later, some telescopes optically “fold” the light path internally.) Focal length is the large number you’ll often see printed or engraved on the front or back of the scope, usually between about 400 and 3,000 millimeters depending on the scope’s aperture and type.
Eyepieces have focal lengths too — 25mm or 10mm, for example. Simply divide the focal length of the scope by that of the eyepiece; that’s the magnification. For instance a 1,000-mm focal length scope, used with a 25-mm eyepiece, delivers 1,000 / 2= 40 power (or 40x).
Read more about choosing your telescope’s magnification here.
Go To Telescopes
Go To telescopes have a built-in computer and database to make finding objects simple, in theory. The downside is that most designs require you to perform an alignment procedure each time you use it, so you still need to know your naked-eye stars.
But it’s not quite like that.
There’s no denying that when well engineered (read expensive), these robotic scopes are great fun to use, as they almost magically slew across the sky in search of whatever you’ve keyed in, zeroing in on the target to be presented in the eyepiece. But this technology is only beginning to mature to the point where these scopes will automatically orient themselves when you take them outside and switch them on.
Almost all Go To systems will ask you to enter the geographical location of your viewing site (or the nearest city) and the date and time at the beginning of each observing session. This lets the onboard computer calculate the positions of any celestial objects you may care to look at. Often you’ll also have to level the telescope’s tube, point it north (or south in the Southern Hemisphere), and then launch into an alignment procedure that uses two bright stars (which you must know by name) to synchronize the telescope’s coordinate system with that of the sky.
It’s true that this setup routine is easily mastered with practice. But it does take time. And for someone completely unfamiliar with the sky, the vast majority of the current batch of robotic scopes have the potential to be very frustrating at first. Still, some help is on the way. The newest crop of Go To scopes include their own Global Positioning System devices to at least tell you (and the telescope) exactly where you are and what time it is, making setup a little easier.
Here’s one last thing to keep in mind: the money spent on a Go To scope’s electronic mount could be invested in a traditionally mounted scope of larger aperture.
Some form of low-power, wide-field-of-view finderscope needs to be mounted on your main telescope, to help you point it where you want. Look for optical finders (top) that have front lenses (objectives) larger than inch (2mm). Or, if you prefer, opt for a reflex sight that projects a red dot or bullseye onto the sky. A reflex sight limits you to naked-eye targets with no magnification, but you can still star-hop to fainter targets.
Although one might be tempted to believe that bigger is better, the rule doesn’t always apply when it comes to binoculars destined for hunting. A magnification of 7x to 10x is more than adequate for all types of hunting. The higher the magnification, the lower the image steadiness; no one wants to steady a 10x binocular after a long tiring hike.
It is true that there are several large observation binoculars you may wish to choose from if you’re interested in using them for hunting. However, these units almost always require the use of a tripod, which for most users may prove to be tedious in the long run. Zoom binoculars come with a number of disadvantages that are worth taking into account. The vast majority of the manufacturers out there don’t commit to making their zoom binoculars waterproof, and most of the models in the line aren’t made for hard use.
There’s a myriad of hunters out there who are under the impression that buying a 10x binocular is simply better than choosing a 7x one. Regrettably, this isn’t an upgrade at all, and if you are looking to get more magnification, what you need to purchase and use is a spotting scope. The magnification of a pair of binoculars has to be associated with the diameter of the objective lens in millimeters.
The larger the lens, the heavier it is. If you are looking for portability, there’s always the option of choosing a 32mm objective, but it might be counterproductive in the end, as you’ll be able to see just a limited amount of detail. Anything under 30mm might be unsatisfactory, particularly if you ever intend on hunting in low light conditions.
Shortly, the main idea behind choosing the right objective size is that the large ones that can be purchased nowadays are bulkier but let in a lot more light than the smaller ones, which are lighter but less precise.
Field of view
The field of view of a unit is oftentimes expressed as FOV at 1000 yards. In a nutshell, this will be the area in feet that you’ll be able to visualize using your binoculars at a distance of 1000 yards. A small number means that the area you’ll be seeing is narrow. The higher the number, the wider the area. It goes without saying that, as you use the magnification, the picture will become smaller, as will the field of view.
There isn’t a universal rule when it comes to choosing the right field of view. On this account, people who are interested in utilizing their binoculars in wide-open areas might benefit from a higher FOV. Unless you’re targeting fast-moving game, you don’t require a higher FOV.
Image quality is generally thought of as being far more important than the field of view, especially since a standard FOV can be considered more than adequate for the majority of hunting.
Exit pupil and relative brightness index
Both the magnification and the objective size are the two details that determine the size of the exit pupil, of which the role is to allow light through to the eye. The exit pupil is defined by a number that results from dividing the objective size by the magnification factor.
Normally, the higher the exit pupil, the larger the amount of light that you’ll be able to visualize. Since it’s difficult to get the right objective diameter, magnification, field of view, and exit pupil, it might be a good idea to refer to the size of the human pupil. In young people, the eye pupil is capable of dilating up to 7mm, whereas, in the elderly, it can dilate up to mm. In this case, the rule of thumb is to choose hunting binoculars that feature an exit pupil with the same size or larger than the one you have in your eye.
The relative brightness index can be calculated by finding out the square of the pupil. In dim light, an RBI that is higher or equal to 2is traditionally thought of as the best alternative.
Optical coatings are added to the glass surface of the objective in order to reduce or downright eliminate light reflection. Light loss and glare are two things that you might not come across in a binocular with an optical coating, but you’ll definitely stumble upon them if your model doesn’t have any good coating. Brighter and clearer images often come from the quality of the optical coating.
If the model you want to purchase has coated optics, this means that at least one glass surface on at least one lens has been covered with an anti-reflective coating. Other units nowadays are fully coated, multi-coated, and fully multi-coated. FMC might be a tad too expensive for some buyers, but multi-coated alternatives do what they are supposed to do, in that they have received many anti-reflective coatings.
The better the coating, the higher the amount of light you will be getting, so if you are invested in getting the best binoculars for hunting, you might want to consider spending a bit more and getting a pair that is at least multi-coated.
Binoculars vs. Telescopes
Telescopes show a small area. Binoculars, with their wider field of view, let you scan the sky for targets. And binoculars give you a much better appreciation for how objects relate to one another. They give you a better chance to see patterns in the cosmos.
The Importance of Porro Prisms
Sometime around 1850, Italian optics wizard Ignazio Porro realized that a triangular glass block with a 90-degree corner would double-reflect a light path, letting an image emerge with the same left-right perspective with which it entered.
But birds and beasts and head-banging musicians will be much closer. To cope with this dual use, make sure your new binoculars can focus at relatively close range.
Look, also, for a center-focusing knob to easily jog both light paths to paint a sharp image on your retina for your brain to see.
Includes links to low-vision specialists and sources of assistive devices, information on eye diseases and conditions, organizations assisting persons who are visually impaired, advice regarding children and educational issues, and tips for driving with low vision.
First of all thanks for reading my article to the end! I hope you find my reviews listed here useful and that it allows you to make a proper comparison of what is best to fit your needs and budget. Don’t be afraid to try more than one product if your first pick doesn’t do the trick.
Most important, have fun and choose your magnifying glass wisely! Good luck!
So, TOP3 of magnifying glass
- №1 — LED Magnifying Glass 10X + 5X Illuminated 2 Lens set. Best Magnifier Set With lights for Seniors
- №2 — Coohome 3 LED Light
- №3 — Insten 10X Handheld 10X Magnifier Magnifying Glass with Handle for Science